
The big Obama news right now is that The Future First Family will be moving into The Hay-Adams Hotel in Washington, DC, this weekend, so Malia and Sasha can start school on Monday at Sidwell Friends. The smallish, very upscale, and
historic hotel is located virtually across the street from The White House, on Lafayette Square. If you walk out the hotel's front door and turn right, you're staring at the future home of the
White House Organic Garden (
wink wink, and fingers crossed), otherwise known as the White House lawn. The Hay-Adams is so close to the Exec Mansion, in fact, that it's possible to see what the snipers who patrol the White House roof are eating for lunch, without the benefit of binoculars.
So...how's the foodorama at The Hay-Adams? There's only one restaurant,
The Lafayette, and we've dined there many times (
the dining room, pictured). The food is generally very good, and can get pricey (up to $45 for entrees, depending on what meal is being served), but it's no more expensive than any other Washington restaurant. The Lafayette also does the room service menu, so if the Obamas are eating "in" they'll be chowing Lafayette food, which is confusingly described four ways: Nouveau American, American, Eclectic, and Continental. The entire Lafayette project is a rather muscular and usually successful attempt at pleasing the international range of palates that show up at all DC restaurants, while also injecting a bit of local fare into the menu, under the guise of "American." There are no foams, no
essences, no soups through straws or
macerations; the place is largely devoid of trends and the kind of molecular gastronomy foodie iterations that have captured the imaginations of some other DC-local chefs.
That's probably because German-born Executive Chef Peter Schaffrath is traditionally trained (pictured). According to DC politico rag
The Hill, Schaffrath came up through the cooking ranks in Europe, the Middle East, and Texas before moving to Washington. He spent twelve years as executive chef at another historic DC hotel, the Willard Inter-Continental, before taking over at The Lafayette after an $18 million renovation. He's been at The Lafayette since 2001, though when we called last night to confirm that he was still in charge, the employee who answered told us Schaffrath no longer worked there. After we questioned this, we were put on hold for five minutes, and then told that yes, Schaffrath is
still Top Toque. Hmmm...wonder who's actually doing the cooking if the EC is so missing in action that an employee thinks he's been
86d? The employee couldn't tell us
this, either, and explained that it was because she was "new." Or...perhaps it was a
less than smart employee...a possible warning sign for a decline in service.
The menu is a mixed bag of organic and non-organic offerings, and it's noted when ingredients are sourced locally. The regular menu already has some Obamaish favorites on it, though nothing that is even remotely similar to the fare at their fave restaurants back home in Chicago (
Spiaggia;
Topolobampo,
Manny's Deli,
Italian Fiesta Pizzeria, among others). At
breakfast, the Lafayette version of a famous Obama food, the
waffle, is brilliant, as is the traditional
corned beef hash with poached eggs (the hash is at its best when ordered "scorched"). The
cornflake crusted brioche french toast is swooningly good, especially when doused with the
apricot butter that goes with the waffles--the warm apple compote and caramel sauce that's supposed to accompany the brioche makes the dish a little too dessert-like.
Lunch: The offerings are something of a masterpiece of French Deconstructionist literary theory
foodie idioms, with the word "natural" used freely and somewhat meaninglessly for the
pan seared chicken breast and
roast sirloin steak (natural as compared to--what?). The veal is "farm raised"--but when does veal appear in the wild? Barack reportedly likes fish, but we're wondering if the
sauteed Chilean sea bass (
pictured) on the menu is the single kind that's certified by the
Marine Stewarsdship Council; if not, line-caught Chilean sea bass is on every seafood
watch list as a fish to avoid if you're concerned about sustainability (still an open question with Barack...). The salads are good choices; though no arugula is available. But thankfully, neither are beets, an avowed
Barack dislike. The $27 Kobe burger is probably a safe bet, particularly if there's hot sauce freely available for Barack; though again, "Kobe" is one of those dicey foodie monikers that's open to interpretation. Is it ground beef from cattle raised in Kobe, Japan, or just beef that's
been named Kobe and raised elsewhere?
Dinner: Bam would probably like the
Dover Sole with lemon-caper sauce, and this particular fish is considered a good sustainable choice. The
sesame seed crusted tuna medallions are very good,
and though the
Asian style grilled ahi tuna salad is not really
that Asian
, since it has a
lime and cilantro dressing (pictured), it's tasty, and both might remind Barack of Hawaii. He
does like tuna, but alas, there's that niggling
mercury problem with big fish--and also the problem with what kind of tuna is
actually being served; recently,
DNA tests by both Greenpeace and a couple of industrious
high school girls found that fish in restaurants is routinely mislabeled. The
veal paillard, unlike the lunch version of veal, doesn't seem to be "farm raised," but we've had it and it's finely done, as is the
roasted rocky mountain lamb noisette. The
Parmesan risotto that accompanies the lamb is light and savory, but doesn't quite go with the meat; on the other hand, the
caramelized butternut squash risotto, an entree in its own right, is pretty fantastic, with
fava beans and a
fennel julienne. It's a rich and unexpected combination.
Desserts: The desserts are all variations on requisite "gourmet" fare; there are no big standouts, save for the
lemon mango trifle. It's rare these days to see a trifle anywhere, and this one is excellent, fluffy yet dense, and the mango and lemon combination is a delirious sweet/sour dream. The
warm apple tartin is good old comfort food, with the same caramel sauce that's tossed on the brioche in the morning; here, it's terrific.
We have to object to the cheese offerings, however. While we appreciate the fact that all the cheeses are American made, three of the four offerings fall directly into the
dangerous category, because they're made with raw (unpasteurized) milk, which can cause
all kinds of gastro-intestinal illnesses. The
Thomasville Tomme (pictured), from
Sweet Grass Dairy in Georgia, the
Oregonzola from
Rogue Creamery in Oregon, and the
San Joaquin Gold from
Fiscalini Farmstead are each made with unpasteurized cow milk, and even the loosest of Fed food safety agencies warns against consumption of raw milk products these days. Do we really want the President-elect--or Michelle and the girls--to become ill with
listeriosis or
E. coli or
campylobacter right before the Obama Era begins?? Um,
nooo. The better cheese choice is the
Vermont Butter and Cheese Company's Bonne Bouche, an artisanal cheese that's aged in ash, and made with pasteurized milk.
Room service also has a special Kids' menu for Malia and Sasha, with the usual hotel child-friendly fare of fried chicken parts, macaroni and cheese, and pizza. They'll also send up plain old ice cream...and happily, there are plenty of places nearby that do takeout (and what restaurant
wouldn't do take out, if Barack's People called, BTW?).
Art Smith, who's cooked for Barack in the past, has opened
Art and Soul restaurant, and it's just a burp away....

And how do you ensure general food safety in a hotel, anyway, when the First Family-elect is in residence? Transition insiders, so far, have been entirely mum on the subject. But there's a whole gang of netroots citizens ready and willing to help.
Foodtasters for Obama, a group that sprang into being during the campaign, is still rarin' to go. Perhaps they can be deputized until the Bushes vacate The White House!
*Related: The foodie blog
eatWashington has an interview with Chef Peter Schaffrath
here.
*And--drum roll please--CNN and other media outlets are
very excited to report that The Hay-Adams is
haunted!! Well, ghosts don't eat food, so we couldn't be
less interested in this bit o' media churn, but we do feel the need to point out that The White House itself is so haunted that the official dot-gov site has
a page devoted to ghost stories. There're also
numerous books about White House ghosts (not to be confused with White House speechwriters...). Look for the happy authors of the White House ghost books to pop up on CNN and Fox sometime around Jan. 12, when viewers need a break from the 30,00 Inauguration stories. And do read about Lincoln hauntings
here, if you find phantoms as fantastic as phood.
*Picture of Chef Peter Schaffrath and food pictures from DC Examiner. Lafayette dining room picture from Leonardo.