
It’s
interesting to publish a story on the future direction of First Lady Michelle Obama’s food policy…and then not really mention the First Lady’s future food policy. That’s what’s going on over at the
Washington Post, in Jane Black’s
The Next Course. This can only be chalked up to editorial intervention, because Ms. Black’s a swell food writer, but t
he “progress report” on the First Lady’s food agenda doesn't really report much “progress.” Basically, Black’s story can be summed up thusly:
Kids are important to the First Lady’s food agenda, and she’s going to keep focusing on kids, but it’s unclear how. Or to directly quote Black--
Now what? But this is an oversimplification of the subject, for anyone who’s paid close attention to what’s going on at the White House. The East Wing’s already got a multi-layered food agenda, with lots of terrific messaging, and lots of readable road signs about where it's all headed. (
Above: Mrs. Obama and Kass shell peas in the White House kitchen during the Kitchen Garden Harvest picnic event)
What the White House hasn’t yet got is an appropriate system to do their food messaging. Black quotes White House assistant chef and food initiative coordinator
Sam Kass as saying he's working on a series of recipes that will focus on seasonal cooking, as a way to make Mrs. Obama's health and nutrition message more concrete. But it’s unclear if the project will be in the form of a book, or a website, or even videos. To date, Kass has released
one set of recipes from the excitingly busy White House Kitchen, and Executive Chef
Cris Comerford has also released
one recipe. But Kass maintains that recipes will be a "bigger part" of White House food activity.
"We are exploring new avenues to get real, practical recipes into the hands of mothers and fathers," Kass tells
Wa Po.

This is currently the most critical issue in WH food policy—developing those
avenues into an
actual messaging system. So far,
there’s been a reliance on mainstream media to spread Mrs. Obama's good news on food—and mainstream media often gets it wrong,
since most reporters aren’t food writers. And this is particularly true for the White House press pool reporters who trail Mrs. Obama around.
Case study: A recap of the press pool reports of the First Lady's remarks during a visit to Bancroft elementary school is
here; what she actually said is
here (
Mrs. Obama at Bancroft, in pic). As the First Lady has swung further into food policy issues with each speech she’s given over the last two months, her important remarks have often been undermined by poor reporting, or they're not reported at all. Unfortunately, this has been twinned with the fact that there’s been no dedicated portion of the White House website in support of Mrs. Obama's agenda, no consistent approach adopted, no special social media use other than a single Youtube video starring slugger Ryan Howard
touring the garden with Kasss. Even the USDA is tweeting and using social media these days, and has numerous dedicated blogs—such as the
Rural Tour blog. So a well-designed, multi-platform messaging system—that's all in one place, and encompasses a variety of social media--eg, making those decisions about what
avenues to take—is what really needs to change.

To date, the soft policy for messaging Mrs. Obama's food agenda has been to
not make corrections when the media misreports food issues. Mostly, this has worked because it both promotes healthy eating and nutrition awareness, and has been a good way to avoid hard controversy. But it's become a policy of allowable obfuscation, and the jury is no longer out on whether this is a good choice, given the most recent media activity. We're in the 21st century, with thousands of food media outlets
going at it, and many blogs have multiple posts in a single day. Misinfo gets immediately reported as truth; there's little fact checking once something's online.
Case study: Since March, the public has been convinced that the White House Kitchen Garden is organic. This fact has been trumpeted in headlines around the world, invoked at every turn. The truth is, the White House Kitchen Garden uses some organic practices, but it
isn't certified organic, a three-year, multi-step process.
In fact, Mrs. Obama has never used the word "organic" in her recent formal public remarks. But allowing the media to characterize the garden as organic seemed to be doing no harm, so why bother to correct the record? Well, because when you eventually
do correct the record, and announce that
the garden isn't actually organic, the public begins to wonder just what the devil to believe (transparency!). It can be argued that it’s not the WH’s job to correct misguided reporters, but on the other hand, Kass has made relatively few public comments, and his First Big Media Profile has not appeared (in contrast to Comerford,
who has done a big interview for international media) so the myth has stayed alive, because Kass oversees the garden. He’s kept mostly mum, while the public is thirsty for food knowledge, because the First Lady's remarks have gotten so much attention despite the fact that they get often get misreported. (
Above: Kass with starts for the garden)
Much of the messaging problems are due to the fact that the White House does not have a staffer who is dedicated solely to handling food media issues. Sure, both the East and West Wings are filled with talented, super smart, dedicated people, but mention CAFOs, GM crops, child nutrition re-authorization--or, um, lead contamination--to people in the press offices--and their eyes could well glaze over (your intrepid blogger's eyes often glaze over when these topics are discussed, and your intrepid blogger writes about them daily). Food policy’s a
complicated topic (and often boring beyond belief), and yet at the same time it's very controversial, with everyone from parents to chefs to activists to scientists to Congress and lobbyists weighing in on the subject. And the people who write about food policy are highly opinionated, and frequently statistic-happy wonks who have micro-opinions (your blogger is guilty as charged). And food media is a reflection of this--it’s divided into monstrous little duchies that all seem to compete with each other, and who want to break the latest food news--whether it's true or not. Combine this with the fact that the White House Kitchen Garden has become internationally famous, and is frequently invoked as a symbolic object for things that are unrelated to it, and it's a big problem.
Case study: Food writer
Barry Estabrook, in
Gourmet mag online, just opened a story
on USDA's organic standards problems by invoking Mrs. Obama and the kitchen garden. Why didn't Estabrook use USDA's own
People's Garden, Ag. Secretary Tom Vilsack's fave project--which
is certified organic--to make his point instead? Well, because Mrs. Obama has a higher popularity rating than Secretary Vilsack, and a photo of her digging in the garden is more likely to get readers interested in the attendant blog post than a photo of Secretary Vilsack doing the same thing. Problems are built in and guaranteed when you've got a garden that's credited with
inspiring the Queen of England to go plant her own palace food garden, and all of Russia seems to love the First Lady
because she's gardening.
The worst case of media misreporting on White House food that didn't get corrected speaks directly to the problem of food media run amok. The faux lead contamination issue in the garden got out of control because no one from the White House addressed online mag
Mother Jones's first salvo of accusations that
the garden was poison (although your intrepid blogger
did).
Huffington Post made this worse; it has a huge readership and an editorial policy that blog pieces are "opinion" rather than factual reporting, and thus posts
whatever its bloggers write with absolutely no fact checking.
Huff Po managed to spin the lead issue out of all proportion by posting a piece by Andrew Kimbrell, who used the
Mother Jones piece but didn't fact check it, and then blogged that the Obama's garden was
swimming in lead-contaminated sludge (and he did this
twice). Mr. Kimbrell is a respected activist on food and environmental issues (or he
used to be, before he stepped in sludge...), and thus his complete lack of accuracy about the garden and lead suddenly
seemed like real fact. Your intrepid blogger
corrected this nonsense, too, at
Huffington Post, and then the WH
did release a statement on the lead level in the garden. But the correction was not vetted by a WH food media staffer, there was no soils expert quoted to give perspective on what the WH lead level really means, and so the statement got into the
AP news wire
with the headline White House Garden Tests Positive For Lead. This rapidly went global, picked up in ms media and the blogosphere. Because few people understand lead issues--but they
do understand that lead can be toxic--it resulted in more media activity about lead at the White House. A more realistic headline:
The Entire Earth Tests Positive For Lead, And The White House Kitchen Garden Tests Shockingly Low In Comparison.
Sure, you can't control all media, even if you're the White House (though this is a frequent accusation), but corrections
can be made on critical issues. Although the lead test results for the garden had been released by the National Park Service months prior to the attempts to blame kitchen garden "contamination" on sewage sludge, it didn't matter to anyone wanting to invoke the kitchen garden for their own use--Kimbrell,
Mother Jones, and all the other media outlets and bloggers who jumped on board. After about a week, things quieted down with the lead accusations, yet even now, the issue is still swirling in the mediasphere, and it’s
re-gaining traction, particularly in the right wing arena…because nothing ever dies on the Internet (the issue is even raised in the comments section for Black's
Wa Po story).
It's little wonder that the White House is in general allergic to
Huffington Post, btw. Their poor editorial policy for fact checking is irresponsible. Could the WH have changed the way lead was reported? Should Press Secretary Robert Gibbs have explained, at a presser, what lead levels mean in gardens, and pointed pool reporters to state ag extension sites that accurately explain this? No. Secretary Gibbs has far more pressing issues to deal with, like national security and the economy. But an explanation of gardening--and what lead levels mean for food gardens, on a portion of the WH website that's devoted to kitchen and garden issues--would've eliminated the problem rapidly. People look to the WH website as
the source, even when the rest of the blogosphere is going nuts.

There's another good example of how White House food issues keep resurfacing--which has
nothing to do with Press Office response, at all, but does point out the long life-span of Internet Obama food stories. When Mrs. Obama visited DC's
Miriam's Kitchen to
work on the food service line, one of the pool photographers captured an image of a soup line guest photographing the First Lady with his cell phone camera. This caused an uproar in the blogosphere with questions about why someone who can't afford to pay for food
can afford to have a cell phone (btw, there are plenty of good reasons to explain
how this turn of events is entirely possible). It was a minor moment of "scandal" in the scheme of things, and unrelated to
anything the First Lady was doing at Miriam's, yet months later, bloggers are still focusing on it--and some have newly discovered it. This has gone on to such a large degree, via viral e mail, that
Snopes.com, the Internet site that debunks Internet myths, has a
dedicated page for the subject (good job,
Snopes!).
Obama Foodorama gets a perpetual stream of hits from people looking for White House recipes, for nutrition advice, for gardening guidance, for event dinner menus, for
which china service is used at
which event—everything from how to plant exactly what Mrs. Obama planted, to queries about where the White House has gotten its seeds, to what's the calorie count of a Ray's Hell Burger and what kind of condiments the President prefers. Clearly there’s a huge public interest in
all Obama food activity, but particularly in cooking and gardening education issues. This is due to the public’s unfortunate half-literacy in both cooking and gardening, and an awareness--that's been inspired by the First Lady--that we're all suffering from our poor food choices. The White House is hoping to change this for a multiplicity of policy reasons (health care reform being primary among these, but the ability to achieve the President's educational goals is closely related, too...) so the WH now needs to
really help in concrete ways. Critical messaging is lost if it can't be easily found, a zen koan that's worth pondering...
Related: Chef Comerford's recipe for no-cream Creamed Spinach is here; Chef Kass's recipes for the White House Garden Harvest picnic are here. And no, sorry, there's still no recipe for the cupcakes that were served at that event...*This post was updated on July 17.